Help new system blue
#21
This day and age ethernet crossover cables aren't required. The ports work out between themselves which is to talk down which pair. Even the lowly ENC28J60 chip used for the ethernet port on the controller can do this, just tested that...

Assuming that anything plugged into the "switch" can access the internet via the "router", plug the controller into the switch. Then look in the routers DHCP table for the IP address it has given to the MAC address of your controller. Enter that IP address into a browser and you should get the controllers home page returned. Bit of a Catch 22 is that there is no easy way to know the controllers MAC address without using the web interface. So just look for recently issued leases, or just try each IP address untill you get the controller.
Cheers
Dave.

Stations: 1627
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#22
I took this as using a crossover cable. I take it the system is damaged now and wasted a lot of money:-(
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#23
Dave thanks for the advice and will have a go tomorrow as none of the LEDs are not lighting up instead of power one. It was the same when I switched the system on first thing with nothing else connected to it.

One good thing is that it will allow me to update the firmware using the USB on my computer
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#24
(2017-09-17, 19:10)pasense Wrote: Which instruction? Have I missed something? Crossover cables are for connecting computer to computer directly, not computer to router. I immediately used a normal ethernet cat5 cable and it worked.
The system blue assembly instructions say:
"The router is connected at the RJ45 network port with a shielded twisted pair network cable (FTP,STP, S/STP, or S/FTP)."

I fully agree. The instructions I read said to not use a crossover cable.

And although I now use a shielded cable, it worked perfect without either cable being shielded.
Regards,
Mike
http://www.w0btu.com
Stations: 1977
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#25
(2017-09-17, 20:00)mikey141 Wrote: I took this as using a crossover cable. I take it the system is damaged now and wasted a lot of money:-(

I don't think using a crossover cable will damage it.
Regards,
Mike
http://www.w0btu.com
Stations: 1977
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#26
Patience! Don't throw it through the window. It will work it just may take a little more time. The first thing is to get it to light up.
The USB connector on the board is a USB mini-B, most phones do not use this. So yes you will need the proper connector or an adaptor cable.
After you have got past that stage you can then use your computer to get access to the controller via your router.
At First switch on I could not find the ip address that the router had assigned either. I used "Angry IP scanner" and that found it. There are other programs that will work for this as well.
I was then able to access the controller.
The only dumb questions are the ones that you did not ask until it was too late. If you have a problem ask in the forum.
Good Luck!

Brian.
Stations: 1856
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#27
Well said, Brian! :-)
Regards,
Mike
http://www.w0btu.com
Stations: 1977
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#28
No need for crossover nor rollover cables. All Ethernet cables should be regular straight through cables.

Now using a crossover on the network jack should not break anything.

Connecting a crossover or rollover cable to the H-Field connection you may cause damage as you are connecting some powered signal lines to ground.
Kevin McCormick KB0UOI
Macomb, IL USA
Stations: 1539
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#29
It's good comments!  Correct,..

I made a real dumb error once, while working on my BLUE... I inadvertently reversed  the Blue H amp and IP cables... had
some very strange issues... thought I'd blown my amp, controller and router...  whew.

First, Give this system time to stabilize!  It may take several minutes... I don't know why, but it does... even after stabilization it will NOT work properly until it receives and stabilizes GPS, and communicates with the server. You might have to do a 'factory reset', remove all power, wait several minutes, then do a completely cold startup with everything connected properly, and give it time to stabilize before doing anything.

Also, I note at least two colored LEDs on your build picture are reversed... no big deal, but I might review all my 'build' steps ...I generally will have another 'error' if I've found one... but I'm old, can't see, etc...

Cheers!
Mike
                   TwinHollies WeatherCenter  Frankfort KY, USA
  Americas Operators at Sferics.us
        Stations: 689, 1439
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#30
thank you to everyone and will give it another go this week and let you know the outcome. Sorry for all the questions and I'm new at this but everyone's advice will help me...
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#31
Mike, no need to apologize! We all want to help you succeed!
Regards,
Mike
http://www.w0btu.com
Stations: 1977
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#32
(2017-09-18, 01:27)kevinmcc Wrote: Connecting a crossover or rollover cable to the H-Field connection you may cause damage as you are connecting some powered signal lines to ground.

The power is on pins 4 (+5 V) and 5 (Gnd). A cross over cable doesn't move that pair it just swaps 3&6 with 1&2.

Using a cross over cable H-Field socket to H-Field amp won't be a problem apart from channel 1 and channel 2 being swapped.

Mistaking the H-Field socket for the ethernet port and connecting that toa switch may be problematical depending on what is one the other end. If it's a 10/100 Mbps port that may well short pins 4 and 5 and thus the +5 V rail of the controller. I think the +5 V regulator is pretty robust and short circuit protected though. If it's a Gigabit port that might object to having 5 V across and some current flow through the isolation transformer of pair 4&5. But again the isolation transformers do seem fairly robust.
Cheers
Dave.

Stations: 1627
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#33
Am I really doing something wrong with the system blue as I've done following and still nothing is happening:
1. bought a new power supply
2. Switched the system on with power LED only displaying and with RJ45 connected only
3. left left the system alone for ages.
4. RJ45 lights up for a limited time and then goes out
5. used "Angry IP scanner" but nothing comes up with a IP address for the system.

I've updated the forum with latest pictures of my board if it helps people
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#34
Assuming you have a good network patch cable that is straight-through and NOT a crossover cable, try this:

Open your router's webpage, and browsing around there you should be able to see which IP address that it has assigned to your controller. Something like http://192.168.0.1 or perhaps http://192.168.1.1 .

When you find the controller's IP, then you can view your System Blue's webpage in the same way, for example http://xxx.xxx.xxx.xxx (replacing the x's with your controller's IP that you found).

I have DHCP enabled rather than static IPs, which I think is easier.

If you don't have the manual for your router, then Google is your friend.
Regards,
Mike
http://www.w0btu.com
Stations: 1977
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#35
Hi Mikey, There should be a lot more action when you switch on. The various coloured LEDs should flash, I keep meaning to note down the actual sequence and then most of them will either continue flashing, as in the case of the GPS red LED, because it can't find the satellites or if it does manage to find them then it will go out and the blue LED will start flashing at one second intervals, the red power LED will stay on and most of the others will reach a steady state or go off.
Do you have any test equipment, or know anyone that can do some basic tests, fault finding and trouble shooting at a distance can be so hard.
When you switch it on does anything get hot?
I see that Cutty mentioned that you have some of the solder in LEDs the wrong way around.
I would maybe start by carefully desoldering and removing the LEDs that don't light and seeing if the on board LEDs then light up.
Especially the one next to the red power LED, the first green one as that connects directly to the ST32 chip.
Once you have the LEDs working as they should, we can advance from there.
Don't despair it will work eventually!
Nice Photos BTW.

Brian.
Stations: 1856
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#36
Mikey, this is great advice from Brian, and you should follow his before mine.
Regards,
Mike
http://www.w0btu.com
Stations: 1977
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#37
Hi Mike, My board comes up on 192.168.8.101.
That was why I recommended "Angry IP scanner," some routers are not logical and seem to place peripherals where they want and not always where you would expect to find them.
Scan from 192.168.1.1 up to 192.168.9.255. For most computers these are the user allocated IPs.
However the first thing is to get the board showing proper signs of life!
Regards,

Brian. Smile
Stations: 1856
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#38
Guys thanks for your continued support. When I switch the system on nothing gets hot on the motherboard and just the power led lights up and the GPS one flashes near C605 chip.
As for the LEDs around the wrong way I followed
"The connecting wires of the LEDs can easily be bend 90 degrees using the front panel that has a width of 2 mm. On the main board there are white stars printed near the LEDs. In these holes the short ends of the wires have to be inserted. This is the cathode (-) of the diodes."
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#39
Hi Mike, For five minutes work, you can take them all out, test the board and check the LEDs and have them back in place if they are O.K.
You will then know if that is the case or not.
There is no point in just jumping from one point to another.
At the moment they are not working, so that is a good place to start!
You can not test them on the board, because they are in parallel with the ones already on the board, if one is the wrong way around then neither of them will light.
This is not some sort of personality thing, although at times I am not very diplomatic, this is just double checking.
You did not answer the question about test equipment or whether there is anyone local to you who can maybe help.
Bear with us, we are only trying to help, if you are not going to listen, and try some of these things, then quickly you are going to find yourself doing it alone.
Then what do you do?
If you ask? Then you have to have some faith that someone can help, if you don't follow the clues given, you are not going to do anything to resolve this problem.
Kindest regards,

Brian.
Stations: 1856
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#40
Brian, thanks for the advice and I will start with the LEDs then. I do have a multi meter and start from that side and see what happens from there.
I've also changed my router IP range to end in 192.168.10.100 and allow for it to find the device once above has been completed.
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